Copyright WWW.DBBP.COM | updated 12-January-2004

Wheels & Brakes


And now for the difficult looking part: The 40 spoke wheel actually
has 4 rings of 10 spokes, put the rim and the hub on a flat surface and
assemble the first 10 spokes on one of the inner rings of the hub,
tightening the nipples just a few threads to leave as much play as
possible in the spokes. Connect the spokes in the inner ring to every
fourth hole in the rim, you can tell which ones by looking at the angle
with which they were drilled. Then assemble the next 10 spokes on the
outer ring of the same side of the hub, these should point in the other
direction than the first 10 and each spoke in the outer ring should cross
4 spokes on the inner ring. Turn the wheel over and repeat the process on
the other side, making sure that the spokes of the inner ring point in the
opposite direction of the spokes of the inner ring on the first side.


I used parts of a spare fork as a balancing stand and after very roughly
balancing the wheel using a piece of strong wire around one of the legs,
I mounted a dial caliper to a piece of steel strip that I had mounted on
one of the fender bolts. Very patiently I started tightening spokes,
changing the position of the dial caliper regularly so that I could measure
both up and down play and left and right play. I suppose having two dial
calipers would be even better, but I had to borrow this one already.

The trick is to take maximum and minimum values and then work towards the
avarage value between these 2. It takes a couple of hours (and beers) but it
can be done! About 3/10 mm is acceptable, the rim itself is never exactly flat.